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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.